Explore An Unique Destination in Italy

A luxury destination at the Ligurian coast: Portofino.

The path to the lighthouse “Faro di Portofino” is a 20 minutes walk and offers great views down to the little cove where the village of Portofino is located. There are some spots through the vegetation to observe the bay. I stop and lean on  the wall that is like a balcony  to appreciate the vantage point. The sea is so blue and calm, however down at the yacht club it is very busy. There are some yachts being prepared to leave for the day. Actually,  the little marina is full with oversized yachts. It is like a showroom of the most luxury yachts available. Next to it, is the pier of the local ferry that does the connection between Portofino and Santa magherita. The ferry  is leaving full of tourist. There is a small cruise ship at anchor and guest are being tendered ashore.

I observe the cruise ship, the tender ride is approximately 15 minutes each way. Only small luxury cruise lines are able to call this exclusive location. Looking down to the pier, there are guides waiting for the guest coming from the ship. Normally,  the tour options offered here are:
- A boat trip to St Margherita which is the village just  5 km away. In the program may be the visit to the Villa Durazzo, a walking tour of the old town and a visit to the church. There is also a beautiful beach, great restaurants to be enjoyed during the free time. Since the ferry runs approximately very half hour, you can come back at your leisure.
-A day trip to Genoa which lies over 30kms away. You take the ferry to St. Margherita and there the tour bus awaits you for the excursion.
-A culinary adventure: learn to do some local specialties like pesto, foccacia, fresh made pasta. One of the locations used is in the nearby town of Recco: the restaurant El Vittorio where you are greeted with a glass of sparkling wine before getting hands on.
-Walking tour of Portofino which takes you to the lighthouse, to the Brown Castle with a beautiful garden,  to the local church. Thereafter you are ready to enjoy this village which is very small and has a fix number of residence that is a bit over 500 people. This short walking tour gives you the introduction to understand the place and then explore it further on you own. There are boats to be rented to go fishing or just cruise along the Italian Riviera, stop for a swim at one of the little coves.

Other tourists just wander around, camera in hands, taking pictures of the oversized yachts, of the colorful buildings, of the little piazza.

I finish my walk and come back to the Piazza Martini dell'Olivetta, the main square of the village, surrounded by cafes, restaurants and by the sea. This is the heart of the place, it is quite busy. Here is good to keep your eyes open, it is not unusual to see celebrities around. The place actually got famous do to the movie starts that came and come to spent a couple of days here on luxury yachts, at a recluse place. There are names like Ingrid Bergmann, Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot that started the trend of the rich and famous to come to this international exclusive cove. Nowadays you may meet Madonna, Denzel Washington, models doing a photo shooting.

All the venus are full of people, it is lunch time. There are great options like the Restaurant Delfino to eat spaghetti with seafood with a glass of wine. For desert, the recommendation is to take a gelato at “Gelateria Marconi”.  There you should taste the flavor Pistacchio before ordering any other flavour.

After lunch, I take a walk up the main street called Via Roma. Along this street are the boutique stores of luxury brands like Hèrmes, Louis Vuitton,  Armani. There you find some chic ideas. Up this street are also cafes and at the right you find a bakery. There I recomend to try the foccacia that is differently made in Liguria. Thin and crispy baked dough filled with soft cheese. Yummy!

A bit ahead  is the taxi/bus stop from where also is a transfer available to the Belmond Hotel Splendido. I will take the rest of the afternoon off and enjoy the facilities of the Hotel. Tomorrow my adventure is to Cinque Terre. Arriverderci!

Top Destination in Italy: Amalfi Coast

Amalfi Coast: Piacere  di Viaggiare

Sipping coffee and enjoying the amazing view from the balcony of the hotel San Pietro Positano. The sea is so blue and calm. In the distance a cruise ship is approaching to spend the day at the Amalfi Coast.  I ask for more coffee and my omelet is also served.

Looking out to the sea, I imagine that the small cruise ship has anchored and lowered the first tender boat. It is a short ride to the tender pier in Amalfi. Once the guest arrive ashore , the town of Amalfi is right there, it is literally coming off the boat, cross the street and walk through the entrance gate of the town. At this early your, it is now 8am, is perfect to come ashore and see the locals getting delivered the goods for their stores, setting up the vitrines with the local products like limoncello. If you keep walking a bit up the street, to the right, a bakery: Panificio Apicella  is awaiting you with fresh baked breads.  A good idea, if you hungry, is just to cross the main square, walk in direction to the sea, to the right, at the corner of the block, you find Pasticceria Savoia, a  great selection of pastries to go with your coffee. It is a traditional place where you find also the locals.

By now the scene of the street has changed, the cruise passengers are around, exploring the street, small shops and going up the steps to visit the cathedral which reminds us of the past of Amalfi. The commerce with the East during the middle ages is reflected in the architecture of the Cathedral.  The exterior of the cathedral reflects Arab influences.  Once up the staircase, turn around and enjoy the view from this vantage point down to Piazza Duomo. Great spot to take some pictures and observe the people wandering around the Piazza.

Keep then walking up the street Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi along which you will find the local ceramic shops which offer shipping so that tourist are able to purchase this beautiful peaces of art. I love the decoration with lemon motives. There are also small boutiques with beautiful linen shirts and dresses, ideal for this hot summer. Keep walking and keep an eye to the left of the street until you find the Museo Della Carta. You may have heard of “Carta di Amalfi” and it is still made hear for the Vatican for example. Inside the Museum you will learn about the art of making paper from cotton. Another Arab influence. In the heyday of the production is said that the Republic of Amalfi had more than 17 paper mills. The museo is amazing and the machinery still works and you see the demonstration during the guided walking tour.
I get interrupted in my thoughts of how the tourist can explore Amalfi by the waiter that has come to let me know that the yacht Morgan 44 is ready. I have chartered it to take me to the Island of Capri. We take the elevator down to the private beach of the hotel. I board and the captain  starts the journey. I do accept a  glass of champagne to toast to this beautiful sunny day. It is a very smooth ride and soon we are at the Marina Piccola. There I meet with my friend Paolo that will show me the Island. Our plan is to go up to Anacapri, take the lift chair up Mt  Solare. Thereafter, we will the Villa San Michele and enjoy lunch  at L'Olivo restaurant. The terrace of the restaurant gives you the essence of the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Paolo will also join me on the next day to the archeological site of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Both cities have been destroyed by the eruption of the volcano Vesuvius in the year of 79AD. Besides reading about It,  I have seen the movie Pompeii to prepare myself for it.

According to Paolo,  during my stay at the Amalfi Coast, we need to reserve one day to visit the Archeological Museum in Naples where the findings of Pompeii are displayed.  Of course,  it is the city where the Margherita  Pizza was created and it will be on our menu for lunch.

We have arrived at the Liftchair and it is time to enjoy it, to experience "la Dolce Vita" of the Amalfi Coast! Arriverderci.

In Brazil? Visit Florianópolis!

436.5 km², two lagoons, over 40 beaches plus sand dunes to explore. This is Florianópolis: an island located only 50 minutes by flight from São Paulo and the capital city of the state of Santa Catarina.  It is the hot spot in South of Brazil for those that enjoy adventure, gastronomy and water sports.

All started centuries ago where nowadays the downtown of Florianópolis is. There you find the historical center, which you can explore in a couple of hours. The highlights are the Cathedral, the main plaza: XV of November where you find some monuments like the one in honor for those men that gave their lifes in the Great Paraguay War (1864-1870) and the amazing Figtree that is over 100 years old. Right next to the main Plaza is the Museum of History, this building was the former residence and office of the Governador of Santa Catarina. 
The exploration continues along the first pedestrian street of the city: Felipe Schmidt to observe the local arquitecture, commerce and people. After two blocks turn left and you reach the Customs House that nowadays houses the artisans.  Then just some feet away is the Market (Mercado Público), one section is the Fish market and the 2nd is local businesses.  In the center hall you find the local gastronomy. Take some time here to sit down and to enjoy the atmosphere, have a local brewed bier from the nearby town of Santo Amaro da Imperatriz. The small pub "Vai quem que" has a good selection of those artesanal beers. There is also another local bar, which is a classical to taste seafood and have local drinks, called Box 32. 
The next stop should be at the view point just by the "Parque da Luz"  of the Hercilio Luz Bridge, the first bridge to link in 1926 the Island to the mainland. A symbol of progress, innovation, union and also of resistance.  It is under renovation and shall be operating again by the end of this year after decades of restauration.
Driving along the North Bay, on the left you have the view of the sea and on the right the parade of high risers, exclusive hotels, restaurants, condos and a shopping mall. In approximately 20 minutes drive to the east side of the Island you reach Lagoa da Conceição, my favorite spot os the Island. The panoramic view point on the Lagoa Hill offers you the best vantage point to see the neighborhood of Lagoa, the lagoon itself, the dunes and in the horizon the Atlantic Ocean. 
The lagoon  offers a great variety of sports: kitsurf, paddle board, kayaking or just relaxing under the shade of a tree with your friends and family.
A few minutes away are two of the most espetacular beaches for surfing: Joaquina and Mole beach.  If you choose Joaquina Beach you have the option to practise Sandboard and then you go for a swim  to Joaquina to get rid of all the sand!
Before getting ready for a nightclub,  have dinner at one of the restaurants along the Rendeiras Avenue, the specialliaty is seafood.
If you like a calmer sea, you have the option to proceed to the northern part of the Island.  There you have options like Daniela,  Forte andJurere International beaches. They are ideal for swimming or just relaxing and basking in the sun. The neighborhood Jurerê International has lounge bars along the beach and an open shopping. There is also the Nightclub called P12 which is on of the most exclusive clubs on the Island.
Before leaving the Island, you should have a "caiprinha" at the bar Armazém Vieira which produces it's  own cane sugar rum. In the back of the bar are some barrels of "cachaça" where the aging process happens. Take a bottle with you, it is a great gift!

Pictures by Iria Sponholz 

Model: Patricia Kreutz 

Up in the air: Juneau, Alaska

The visibility is amazing. It is a white magic world under us with blue crevasses breaking the infinity of the white of the Juneau Ice field. The helicopter ride takes you up to the dogsledding camp, where another adventure awaits you.
As soon as the helicopter lands and you step on this frozen world, you hear all the excitement of the dogs crazy to take you for a ride.
I feel in my face the ice flakes, the dogs are digging in the ice and it ends up on those in the front of the Sled.  It just adds to the adventure.At the end you can even play with young puppies before going back. But wait there are more options.

Walking or hiking on the ice field? Either  option also includes an helicopter flight up to the ice field. At the base, safery instructions and equipment are provided. Then it is up to the air, to enjoy the views of the frozen world.   Once   the helicopter lands at the ice field, the exploration starts. Following a guide who  will give you details of this unique environment, formation and hidden dangers in the surface to be observed.  There is even an opportunity on the hike to experience to climb a small mountain.

Another adventure not to be missed is to take the flight to the Taku lodge. Actually, in my opinion,  this is the best combination to include the most if you have only one day in Juneau. You will have the best of three activities in one: an amazing  flightseeing  in a floatplane  designed  for 10 people maximum and all with window seats; view of the Taku Glacier and a feast of wild king salmon.
The flight is over the Taku Glacier that is actually one of the few glaciers advancing, growing, is remarkable.  It is so much beauty to be taken in while the pilot narrates what you are observing from your private window view.
The landing is on the Taku River and from there is just a few yards to the lodge where all is set for the salmon feast. The salmon is on the grill being prepared which gives a bit of time to explore the surroundings of the lodge.
As soon as the Salmon is ready, all tourist are invited to enter the lodge for lunch. There is a fireplace and some mobilia from the first owners. Once all are served, it is a buffet style and seated, one of the guides will tell the story of the lodge and their owners. Quite amazing.
After lunch there is time for a walk on the property at one of the trails and if you are there in July, there is an opportunity to pick your own berries during the trail. Just keep in mind to leave some to the black bears. Sometimes they pop out of the bushes!
After the walk, there is a bit of free time to enjoy at leisure or to take a look at the souvenir shop.
Then is time to flight back to the town of Juneau.  Before the ship leaves, there is some time to explore the shops that are all in walking distance from the pier.
In sum, Juneau, is an unique capital city remarkable and so remote that you can only acess it by boat or plane. The roads lead to nowhere, it is a landlocked city but one of the most popular port cities in Alaska.  Time to explore it: up in the air

Take a break, have a glass of wine.

Young and intense, full of body, swirling it around to catchmore air, to open up to all senses and aromas...to leaf it up, to analyze against the light the color, to give a last swirl  to see the size of the legs..to take the first sip and swirl it in your mouth; The last moment before the final act.

Observing the ritual of wine tasting brings me back to Ensenada, Mexico where I discovered that this coutry is much more than tequila and bier.

To arrive at the cruise port Ensenada, Mexico gives you the opportunity to unveil a wine region that recently is being noticed and valued as a great wine route to be explored.

It is only 40 minutes drive north  from Ensenada to reach the Guadalupe Valley. You may think that it is a new wine region, then Mexico is about tequila and bier, however wine is being produced for centuries here. The area had a turbulent colonisation period with the influence of Russians, Italians, French that started growing some varieties of grapes that they brough with them and to produce wines. You still see their traces in name of the farms that belong to traditional families.

To explore this region you can add a bit  more of adventure to it. There is the option  of the tour if you come by cruise line  via jeeps that take you a bit of road after the visit of the winery. The jeeps go in convoy, all in contact via radio and the driver guide fills you in with information of the region while guiding the way to the winery.

Some wineries have lodges, boutique hotels for those that want to experience the wine farm, the culinary and enjoy the piece and relaxing atmosphere with a glass of wine.

The winery Monte Xanic  that we visited offers a tour of the Cellar, the wine tasting and if you up for a meal to pair with the wine, it is also available.  You learn that this winery is adapt of the process of picking the white grapes during the night when is cooler and this important to control the fermentation of the grapes for the production of crisp and light whites. It you pick them during the day at temperatures of 27 to 30 degrees, it will afect the fermentation due to the sugar level. In order to keep it under control a cold bath has to be applied.  However with the night pick you have already this control. Actually,  this process started after 1070s when the mechanization was introduced to pick the grapes. It could be done very fast with machines during the night.

Now it is time to continue our wine tasting. Would you like to join us? Come to Ensenada from where you can explore this precious wine region: Baja California  that is responsible for 90% of the production of wines in Mexico. You will be surprised by the beauty of the area and of the quality of the wines.

Coming Up?

The black water running down the drain with some white foam topping it from the soap, little by little I wash off the ash and black sand of Cerro Negro Volcano from my body.
After a good half an hour under the shower, I feel fresh and clean.  Then coming out of the bathroom, I see my shoes and my socks; you cannot tell anymore that they were once white,  they are black now.  This brings me back to the morning when the adventure started. 
We arrived at 9am in Corinto, Nicaragua.  The largest cargo port in Nicaragua.  To leave the port with our tour coaster bus is an opportunity to see all the trucks coming in and out with the goods. Corinto port town is simple, with some local business but no real tourist attractions. However, a good way to explore it is to take an eco-taxi.  The locals adapted bikes that look like a tuk tuk and are used to transport people to their destinations.
During the 2 hours’ drive to reach Cerro Negro, you pass by many sugar fields, some small properties, you see some cattle along the road and chickens, which remains me of the famous local transportation: the chicken buses. That is right, they transport still more than people! And you know how many people fit in this buses? Always one more!
Reaching closer to the volcano, there are some sparse small properties. The kids are running around in the yard, waving to us. It seems a happy and piece full life.  People are content with what they have and seem to make the most of it.
The main economic source of income is the agriculture and tourism is starting to play an important role. The minimum wage approx. $300 per month, which gives a good picture of the reality in Nicaragua.  Just Haiti is poorer than this country in Latin America.
The closer to Cerro Negro the more remote is the area, the less habitats, the dirt road is narrow, only small vehicles can come through. In the horizon, the volcanos are getting more impotent. Nicaragua has more than 25 volcanos from those seven are active. Cerro Negro’s last e eruption was in 1999. He has been quite for the last decades, there is just some steam coming out of the crater.
Upon arrival, there is an entrance gate to the park where they to a check in control and restroom facilities. Thereafter it is just a few minutes’ drive and there you are, at the foot of the mountain. It is very important to have at least two bottles of water with you, hat and sun lotion. It gets very hot during the day.

The hike up is kind of around the mountain and up. The trail goes over rocky terrain, loose gravel. It can be quite challenging.  It takes over an hour to reach the top, the mountain is over 600 meters and what an amazing feeling it is: the breeze, the view, the power of nature, the celebration of the achievement.

After appreciating the stay at the top of Cerro Negro is time to make the way down. The route is not the same as the one that you came up. The trail is down the sandy side of the mountain and it takes less than half an hour down, then you slide down. It is a lot of fun. Next time, I will do the Sandboarding; it is a speed ride down the mountain.

Once you reach the bottom, it is time to take off shoes and take out all the sand and look back amazed to the power of this mountain.

Our trip continued to the  colonial city of Leon, where we had lunch and some free time. Leon is another amazing destination not to be missed.

My thoughts get interrupted by the phone, duty is calling. Until a next adventure!